Bite-Sized: 48 hours in Athens
highlight reel of my 5 day trip to Greece (let’s be honest, you don’t need a full itinerary, just the best of the best)
I’ve been living out of a suitcase since January—ping-ponging between New York and Los Angeles. Yes, I do technically have a home, a beautiful one at that, but I’ve rented it out for a laundry list of reasons that all make sense on paper. My newly nomadic lifestyle has its highs and lows, but mostly, it keeps things exciting. I live for that pre-trip adrenaline: packing a bag, changing scenery, slipping into a new rhythm.
Also, if you’re a subscriber wondering why it’s been crickets for exactly a month—it’s because the floodgates opened on our busy season of events. I’m designing and producing some incredibly exciting projects this summer (more on that soon). I still haven’t quite figured out how to juggle all the hyphens—Event Designer, Chef (yes, the catering company is very much alive), Substack-writer, and general sharer-of-all-the-things. No complaints here. I love when work kicks into high gear—the only thing I wish is that I didn’t feel like I was ghosting you here.
Now, let’s talk Greece.
My entire carry-on suitcase HERE / Silk Pants / Linen Knit Tee / Boat Shoes Miu Miu similar / Strappy Sandals / Shell Necklace / Denim Skirt / Denim Jacket vintage Levis similar / Woven Bag
I’ve got a strong feeling I’ll be back again this summer, so consider this part one of a two-part Bite-Sized. I’ve also included a gem or two from the Athenian Riviera—a deeply chic stretch just outside the city center. Locals live out here, commuting into the city, and it makes for a relaxed beginning or end to a Greek adventure. My ideal itinerary? Start with two nights on the Riviera, a week island-hopping, and wrap it up with two nights in downtown Athens. If I could rewind time, I would’ve added an extra night on the Riviera to soak in our little boutique hotel just a bit longer but we did our trip in 5 nights.
Here’s what I loved about Athens: this city is rebuilding—post-economic crash, post-tourism boom—and there’s this unshakable sense of grit-meets-creativity. It’s not polished. The city center is chaotic and covered in graffiti (even this New Yorker was a bit wide-eyed). But between the ruins and the rumble are these real-deal moments— best-in-class cocktails, local ingredients treated with reverence, and hospitality that’s warm and unpretentious. It’s charming in a way that other major European cities have lost a bit.
I should really come up with a rating scale for Bite-Sized, but if you know me, you know what I love: lazy-fancy (I trademarked it for a reason). It’s the sweet spot between relaxed and elegant, thoughtful but never try-hard. Menus that feel inspired but not too precious. Places that are approachable and still aspirational.
So here it is—my round-up of places we loved, and would go again.
My entire carry-on suitcase HERE / Black Mini Dress vintage Celine, similar / Denim Jacket vintage Levis, similar / Woven Bag / Shell Necklace / Strappy Sandals / Black Slip Dress / Tassel Necklace / Silver Buckle Flats / Travel Sweats / Pointelle Tank / Lightweight Cashmere Cardigan / Travel Tote very old, similar / Orange Bikini Top Bottom
Athens: Cafes, Bars & Restaurants
Epta Matryes – Tiny and soulful, tucked into a square with big neighborhood energy.
Pharaoh – A natural wine bar meets Athenian bistro—vibe-y, low-lit, and always packed.
Ergon 72 – A must for breakfast. Try the sesame koulouri bagel with labne yogurt, jammy egg, and a hit of chili—savory, tangy, just the right amount of heat, or the perfectly baked Cardamom Bun.
Anana – A dreamy café with iced freddo espresso and design details for days.
Jerár – A sit-down, Michelin-starred experience. Go with the chef’s choice menu and let them take you on a journey—Greek ingredients, refined execution, and an excellent introduction to local wines.
Bar in Front of the Bar – Speakeasy energy, zero pretension. It’s literally a bar... in front of another bar. Casual brilliance. Their Negroni was best-in-class.
On our Bars list, but we didn’t make it:
Athenian Riviera: Eat, Drink, Sleep
The Margi – Boutique, poolside, total exhale. Stylish in that understated, coastal European way that makes you wonder if you should just stay put and cancel the rest of your trip.
Sofi’s Eatery – Breakfast al fresco, preferably with a glass of something fizzy. Think eggs, fruit, a sea breeze, and no rush.
Ithaki – The views are better than the food, but still: order the local fish and a classic Greek salad, and soak it all in.
Bungalow 7 – I’ll be dreaming about their shiso-infused Negroni all summer. Go for the beach club, stay for golden hour.
More soon. I’ve got part two coming after I log some proper island time.
x Olivia