Magic Beans
an argument to cease the use of canned beans, at the very least in soup.
Let’s dive into this bowl of beans. Something that has been percolating on my palate these last few weeks while I’ve been working from New York—dining out for most meals—is the distinct difference between using dried beans, hydrating them yourself before cooking, versus the ever-convenient canned variety. Sure, canned beans are easy to cook with in a pinch, but they bring little to the flavor party. I’m here to make the case for cooking with dried beans in soup (we can discuss other uses and whether canned is appropriate another day).
I was at a friend’s place, stirring up martinis while she rocked her baby to sleep (I’ll do anything for a night with a girlfriend), and I had ordered a Chickpea Stew from Cookshop. One bite in, the soup was magic. The chickpeas were spicy, cumin-laced, and had the perfect meaty texture—something you’d never achieve by dumping a can of chickpeas into a pot. I knew immediately that I had to replicate it (I’m still developing on the recipe to share).
A few days later, I found myself at a brand dinner for Aligne, seated next to the most delightful table-mate who, admitted she’d been following me for years, excitedly shared her favorite recipe: my Sicilian White Bean Soup. A mutual girl crush was formed. Naturally, my first question was whether she made it from scratch with dried cannellini beans. Her emphatic “yes” led to a ten-minute conversation about the beauty of the soup—its insane simplicity of flavor, thanks to the dried beans and the Sicilian chutney (here is my original Instagram TV episode and recipe, pre-Reels era). Whether pureed into silky perfection or left as a hearty stew, it’s always a lazy-fancy winner.
And then, the final piece of evidence. Two visits in two weeks to MisiPasta, Missy Robbins’ casual deli-diner concept in Williamsburg. A seven-dish menu, which means every dish better be f*$king good. I tried every single one—most of them twice—and while they all stood out, the simplest dish dazzled me most: chickpeas tossed in a citrus vinaigrette, topped with generous shavings of Smoked Ricotta Salata. Lazy-fancy at its best.
So here’s my plea: next time a recipe calls for beans, take the extra step. Soak them in filtered water 24 hours ahead, then gently boil them to al dente before incorporating them into your dish. It’s worth it.
Sicilian White Bean Soup
A rustic, warming soup with bright citrus, briny olives, and just the right amount of heat from chili flakes. The depth of flavor comes from slow-simmered beans, aromatics, and fresh herbs. Serve with crusty bread and a drizzle of good olive oil.